During this past fashion week, I had to go out of town for a few days right in the middle (I know, I know...but it couldn't be helped!). However, I was able to see a few collections before I left that really got me excited to hurry home to see more. One of those collections was FALLS. I had seen some Falls pieces before this specific presentation (shown in a very cool art space in the Meatpacking district), but the minute I walked in and saw this collection for Spring '10, I was instantly smitten. There was something so natural, so organic, and so...well, just lovely, that I knew immediately I had to learn more...
Luckily, Falls' two gracious designers (Philip Leeming and Leong Ong) made a beeline for me at the presentation and took me through the looks. With their soft-spoken demeanors, quick senses of humor, and pure love of their work, Philip and Leong made me fall for their line even more. There was such a distinct point-of-view, and pieces that could so easily create a wardrobe. Dresses (with prints that Leong hand-drew with markers) were perfectly suited to the woman who is chic and fashion-forward but also really, really feminine. Separates included gorgeously detailed tops, flattering little shorts, and innovative knitwear that could be worn multiple ways. With a color palette that included sand, white, and saturated teal, I think I almost skipped down the street to my next show.
So when the opportunity arose to sit and chat with Philip and Leong about Falls, I jumped at the chance. Even more passionate and eloquent over lunch, I got a crash course in the history of the line, their individual design backgrounds, and even a little mention of Katy Perry (a close friend of the duo, she has joyously worn their clothes...). It turns out that Philip was the Design Director at Kenneth Cole, while Leong was a designer at Ralph Lauren, and they started their venture together by launching a knitwear company called ONG. They even opened two stores (the first was in High Falls, NY where "Splendor in the Grass" was filmed and the name for "Falls" came from). A year later, Falls was created with a more boudoir-inspired feeling. Merging Falls with the funkier ONG was a natural progression to making their careers (and lives!) easier and more cohesive.
I asked Leong how they separate the design responsibilities and he relayed that "I specialize in woven design and Philip in knits/sweaters, so there is a direct division...but it's pretty blurred. I paint all of the artwork for the prints, which are usually the kick-off for the color story and the collection. Philip designs all of the stiches for the sweaters. We research together. There's always a moment in the season where we've got a million ideas, too many [really], and it's overwhelming, so the print is key. Then the overall "look" [develops] depending on where we are seeing the volumes/shapes going, and then we decide what is going to be sweaters/what's going to be woven. We drape everything, including the sweaters, on the form so as to get exactly what we want. From there it's a process of editing, fitting and refining with the official (the ever-patient assistants and interns) and unofficial members of our team [like] our fit model Mali and also our stylist/photographer, Grace."
With attainable price points (there are loads of options for around $300!) because the designers "love to see people wearing it" but luxury finishes and detailing, Falls has the potential to appeal to so many different types of women. The soft drape of a dress can be interpreted as sensual and girlie, but that same dress can also be topped with a black leather jacket and suddenly becomes the epitome of downtown cool. In their own words, Falls as a whole line is "versatile" and can be "worn head-to-toe or layered into existing pieces in a wardrobe." My personal favorite pieces from the current and upcoming seasons include a striking short floral dress (the first image above), a long black-and-white printed dress with an unexpected neckline detail, and a true "party dress" in hot magenta chiffon.
Philip mentioned that the inspiration for Spring '10 (which is really a relaunch of the line) came from "an exhibit we'd seen entitled 'yardwork' by Gary Hume at the Matthew Marks Gallery (Gary's work and color use is a consistent source of inspiration for our prints). Starting from there, Leong created the prints, which really inform the rest of the collection for color and feel, [which is] very upbeat and light for spring! We'd also been looking at vintage lingerie pieces from the '30's and '40's for inspiration and styling, and the intricate hand finishing, pleating and construction of the fabrics used then. We wanted to create mini pleats, pointelle patterns and tissue-weight layers in both the woven and the sweater part of the collection."
I have to say, every goal that Falls wanted to reach, they have. They are now, season after season, designing amazingly covetable collections that truly reflect who they are and who their customer is. Coupled with their contagious enthusiasm and geniune talent (and an itch to collaborate on a collection of shoes in the near future), Falls impresses me more and more everytime I talk with the designers or glance at one of their pieces. So as I thank them for taking the time to chat with Stylewhipped, remember to keep an eye out for great things to come from Philip and Leong...
~ Alison
To see more from Falls, visit them online at www.fallsdesigns.com/Falls or shop the collection on www.shopbop.com.
LOVE these. Freaking fantastic.
Posted by: The Rural Modernist | November 21, 2009 at 10:53 AM