StyleWhipped

Fashion Week Review: Leanne Marshall

On Valentine's Day afternoon, I excitedly headed to the Union Square Ballroom to see my friend, the amazingly talented and Project Runway Season 5 winner Leanne Marhsall, present her Fall/Winter 2010 collection. And once again, Leanne definitely didn't disappoint...and in fact, she actually outdid herself, branching out into a more varied collection with interesting separates, intricate detailing, and one of the best finale dresses in all of fashion week.

As at all of Leanne's shows, there was an instant feeling of excitement and comraderie as soon as you walked into the venue. We all were having so much fun before the show even started that people had to be ushered into their seats. I think that says something for the vibe Leanne gives off as a designer...she is enveloping, collaborative and while her designs are cerebral and thoughtful, they are also warm and inviting and make you want to reach out and touch them. On that "collaborative" note - Project Runway alum Suede was backstage helping Leanne, Project Runway make-up artist Nathan Johnson outdid himself yet again with the gorgeous make-up for the show, and members of the current and past Project Runway casts were sitting in the front row with me.

Now, onto the good stuff. Leanne kept true to her aesthetic with exquisitely tailored pieces that moved beautifully and relayed a very distinct point-of-view. A color palette of black, grey, cream, blue, and bursts of bright yellow was well thought-out and never boring. Separates made an appearance (including gorgeous knits, high-fashion coats and smart blouses) alongside Leanne's famous dresses (short or evening-gown-length, they are always show-stoppers). Unexpected fabrics (like a super light-weight wool felt) came down the runway in even more unexpected forms like a short dress with hyper-volume of layer after layer of laser-cut skirts. These garments were truly pieces of art, but still wearable and covetable by any woman.Tops and toned-down day dresses also echoed the look of those cut-outs, creating subtlely unconventional details. And that finale dress? In a gorgeous medium blue silk, its high neckline and long skirt belied the sexy, diamond-shaped, completely cut-out back, and its floaty, weightless floral appliques were pure Leanne. And it was, without a doubt, one of my personal favorite pieces from the entire week...

~ Alison

         

Fashion Week Review: Diesel Black Gold

Before even getting to the actual clothing presented during the Fall/Winter 2010 Diesel Black Gold runway show, I have to mention the...well, the vibe. A hot ticket every season, the massive amounts of snow and slush did not deter the fabulous crowd from lining up for what seemed like days to attend. And with the show being held in a hard-to-find, stripped-down warehouse with a smoke machine and an aggressive, abstract black & silver runway backdrop, this show definitely wins cool-factor points above all others I attended. It was colder inside the warehouse than it was outside, but perched on metal benches in our coats, I don't think anyone even cared...

With a new creative director at its helm, Diesel Black Gold definitely didn't disappoint this season. The tailoring was finer, the details were higher-fashion, there was seemingly more thought put into cohesiveness and texture. And while the styling and silhouettes were mainly on the tomboy-ish side, there was enough sex-appeal and sparkle to create a gorgeous balance. Plaid made multiple appearances, mesh with sparkling beaded appliques played perfectly against fitted black leather and distressed denim, and tiny vests and luxe leather jackets had beautiful (yet still edgy) seaming and silhouettes. Even the accessories were spot-on...heavy black leather studded belts at the natural waist were the ideal counterpart to pieces like a bright white one-shouldered mini-dress. The menswear fared equally well, with more plaid, leather, Diesel's signature fashion-y denim, and even a few amazing suits in warm grey and black, styled just "dirty" enough to keep things interesting and in line with that vibe...

At heart, Diesel is a denim line. But with the skirts, dresses and various leathers and finishes shown in this collection, I think Diesel's heart has gotten much bigger...

~ Alison

             

Fashion Week Review: Elene by Elene Cassis

When I first had the pleasure of meeting designer Elene Cassis, she had just won a coveted award upon her graduation from Parsons School of Design, and had barely started choosing fabric for her first collection. Fast-forward to this season's Fashion Week in NYC and I am blown away by just how far this one-to-watch designer has come! Presenting her second collection at the Bryant Park Hotel, Elene truly outdid herself.

In her signature palette of only black & white (with some subtle variations this time around...whites were on the ecru side, and grey made a quick appearance), Elene presented 12 dresses that easily provide shapes and silhouettes that are flattering, modern, and easy to wear. With names like "The Linda," "The Patricia Ann" and ten other women, Elene used double-knit wool jersey, silk-cotton blend, stretch duchess satin, printed crepe-de-chine (where that grey appears), silk chiffon, silk charmeuse, and novelty wool boucle. Graphic lines, '60's- and '80's-inspired silhouettes, and miraculously flattering horizontal stripes all make statements within a collection that is obviously created for women who want to feel feminine and powerful at the same time. The starkness of the color palette plays beautifully off the flounce of a ruffle and the nip of a waist. My personal favorite pieces in this collection were the dress that Elene herself chose to wear at the presentation..."The Annabelle" is a black scoop-neck pencil dress in a weighty, almost quilted silk-cotton blend, and "The Ann," a printed, almost flowy shift that is 1960's Palm Springs and 2010 Manhattan all rolled into one. Their individual details and immaculate tailoring satisfy our search for those perfectly versatile dresses we are always looking for.

I think we all need to keep an eye on Elene Cassis...with one gorgeous collection after another, I can't wait to see what she gives us next!

~ Alison

     
 
   
 
  

Fashion Week Review: Christian Cota

Inspired by Cubism and the concept of deconstructing pieces and putting them back together, Christian Cota delivered a beautifully sophisticaed yet edgy Fall/Winter 2010 collection. Filled with fun, flirty frocks, he experimented wtih various painting techniques to create bold patterns and sharp edges. With a variety of daytime pieces, cocktail dresses and long evening gowns, this collection not only experimented with multiple perspectives but multiple looks.

Cota's color palette consisted of crimson, cool sapphire, marigold, copper, purple, black and metallic silver. Prints resembled light reflections through a prism, with shapes converging at various angles, creating striking lines. Focusing on a new way to introduce structure to his looks, he ventured into what for him was a bit of an unknown, leaving behind the soft draping of previous seasons for a more geometric, angular aesthetic.

A favorite for me was a textured chiffon, long-sleeved, printed v-ckeck drop-waist dress, styled with a black belt, tights and booties (perfect for lunch or cocktails with friends), while a long-sleeved gown in a pewter-coated lace with a zig-zag, tone-on-tone design is without a doubt red carpet-worthy. Sometimes moving outside your comfort zone can open your eyes and lead to greatness...and for Christian Cota, such was the case - Bravo!

~ Guest Writer Jill Carey for Stylewhipped.com 

        

 
 
 
 
 
  
 
  

Fashion Week Review: Catherine Malandrino

Leather and feathers and fringe – Oh My!  From the moment I stepped foot into the large space in Chelsea where the Malandrino Fall Winter 2010 presentation took place, I was met with infectious tunes of tribal rock and models stoically poised on pedestals invoking warrior princesses. I felt as though I had just entered the wing of a tribal exhibition in a New York City museum. 

 

Surrounded by a mix of soft feathers, plush velvet and leather as well as printed chiffon dresses, her inspiration of an image of Earth from above was apparent. Outerwear stole the show with a variety of oversized coats, fitted leather jackets and feathered vests. In contrast, flowing dresses and gowns in tribal prints offered a softer look. Her color palette reflected earth tones with black taking the lead role, followed by brown, gold, various hues of blue and an occasional punch of orange.

 

And one cannot forget to mention the rockin’ (literally!) jewelry – chunky necklaces, bangles layered over leather gloves – which helped pull together the overall primal appeal of this collection. A few standout pieces for me were a fitted leather jacket with shredded pieces cascading down the front, and a black cape-like sweater with an oversized feather collar paired with leather fitted pants. 

 

~ Guest Writer Jill Carey for Stylewhipped.com

 

   

 
 

Fashion Week Review: Milly by Michelle Smith

Feminine, ladylike, and preppy with an edge, the Milly by Michelle Smith Fall 2010 Collection was brilliantly cohesive. Pointing to Jean-Luc Godard and his radical New Wave cinema as inspiration, Milly designer Michelle Smith provided a strong visual style in her sequence of looks, allowing a natural narrative to unfold.

Classic shapes and clean lines come together to create looks that are modern and bold. And while color has never been a problem for Michelle Smith, her mixing of primary colors with little pops of gold towards the end, radiated a refined confidence and sophistication. Lovely classic French accents appeared throughout by way of berets, stripes and checks. As with other Fall 2010 Collections, colored and textured tights, gloves and hats played a big part in the styling. And while I loved these accessories, admittedly they sometimes took my attention away from the clothes...but never for long. The beautifully cut pea coats will be making their way into many closets next Fall, and I adored the cream check mini skirt, as well as the belted red dress worn with bright pink tights. I loved so many pieces of this collection it seems unfair to play favorites, so just do yourself a favor and keep Milly on your radar for next Fall.

- Cindy

 

 

 

 

Fashion Week Review: Nanette Lepore

Nanette Lepore's Fall 2010 Collection felt like a bit of a departure from what I've grown to expect. Her usual flirty, impeccably tailored, and often ruched and ruffled designs took a more moody and romantic turn. A beautifully rich palette of deep reds, dark pinks, copper, olive, marine blue and carbon were presented in a collection of velvet, wool, silk and tweed. Prints were subtle and often monochromatic.  Slouchy dresses, sweaters and scarves were layered with slim pants, and structured jackets and coats building texture and depth. I loved a look that included a copper lace henley paired with a deep red plaid skirt, but of course my favorite was the glittering olive bead dress worn under a fitted olive moleskin jacket. While we did still see hints of playfulness, this was a decidedly more mature side of Nanette Lepore's modern femininity.

- Cindy

 

 

 

Fashion Week Review: Falls

For two seasons now, Falls has been one of my very favorite lines. So it was perfectly fitting that theirs was the first collection I went to see during this Fashion Week. And it not only didn't disappoint, but it set a very high standard for all the other designers I was about to preview. For Fall 2010, Falls took inspiration from photographer Lee Miller, and followed the styling and tailoring of a slightly menswear-ish aesthetic. 

With fabrics like washed silk cotton, washed crepe de chine, cashmere, alpaca, hand-crocheted marino wool, washed silk velvet, and silk broadcloth, this is a collection that invites you in and keeps you warm, but is also completely luxe and edgy. This collection, just like last season's, could be an entire wardrobe for any lucky girl. With cargo-pocket tapered pants, puff-sleeved dresses, cardigan coats, peasant blouses, ruffled camis, pleated velvet shorts, and (one of my personal favorites) a grey sweater dress with black macrame epaulettes, Falls has covered every piece you would need in your closet. And with the subtle differences between the menswear-inspired pieces and the super-feminine dresses, you would never look as though you're always wearing the same designer. A new color palette for Falls, we saw lovely shades of cranberry, peach, passion, granite and silver.

Falls' two designers are known for their individual expertise in hand-drawn prints and knitwear, and the two styles are beautifully balanced in this collection. Another favorite piece of mine (on the print side) was a black, cranberry, and grey oak-leaf print dress with strong shoulders, a super-flattering neckline, and a soft self-belt at the waist. And I can't ignore the "cool-factor" pieces hidden amongst the lovely dresses...like silver stretch silk "spat" leggings and black & grey striped muscle-length gloves. This season also marks the launch of Falls' collaboration with Heutchy shoes to produce a capsule line of sage, oxblood & cerise soft leather work boots, tough half biker boots, and classic oxfords in midnight blue suede & leather.

As always, the boys of Falls continue to push the envelope and never disappoint...I can't wait till next season!

~ Alison

     

 
 
 
 

Fashion Week Review: Tory Burch

Tory Burch’s FW 2010 collection makes me want to skip over Spring and Summer and move right into Fall. In a presentation style under the tents, I was greeted by Madonna’s “Burnin’ Up With Your Love” as I shimmied my way through the growing crowd toward the runway. There I was met with a collection that would cover any girl’s Fall fashion needs from sunrise to sunset. Cableknit caps and matching sleeveless sweaters topped eye popping orange wool trousers. Sweaters and vests were matched with shorts in tweed and leather. Outerwear was in full effect with coats, capes and vests in various textures like tweed, wool, leather, down and fur. Fanciful feathered skirts peaked out from under a long cardigan and a military-inspired jacket detailed with crystallized shoulders. I can tell you now, you will find me skipping through the streets of Manhattan wearing one!

As a girl who loves sparkles, my eye muscles were certainly massaged by the abundance of them found in almost every piece -- tweed dresses, jackets, skirts and pants, the sleeves on an animal printed dress – guaranteeing this collection could fit into any part of your day. And we can’t discuss Tory Burch without mentioning the shoes and bags.  A reinvention of  what can best be described as a mix between the hiking and workman’s boot, it combined 4-inch heels with laces running above the ankle and a flap covering the toe (reminiscent of an old-school golf shoe).  Shown in black, camel and dark brown, I believe I will need to have all three next Fall! The little rocker in me was also pleased to see that the studs from previous seasons are here to stay (yay!). Seen on oversized clutches, cross-body bags, belts and booties your “studly” desires can be met in a variety of pieces.

 

The color palette was right on cue with Fall – orange, red, blue, dark green, camel, black and gold.  But she didn’t scare away from experimenting with bold patterns to add pop to the collection. Pollock- style, paint-splattered jeans and tops and wild animal prints added depth and variation. While this collection may seem more eclectic than what we’re used to seeing from Tory Burch, if it’s a hint of what’s to come for her empire, I’m in it for the long haul!

 

~ Guest Writer Jill Carey for Stylewhipped.com

 

         

 
 
 
 
 
 
 
 

Fashion Week Review: Max Azria

In a follow-up from last season, Max Azria's Fall 2010 Collection gave us another palette of beautifully soft neutrals including cream, nude, grey and black. But instead of deconstructive tatters and slashes, the focus was on beautifully constructed folds and geometric lines. Tonal looks were kept from seeming flat with depth created from contrasting textures of silk, mesh, wool and leather. And while the collection was certainly minimalist, it was far from feeling cold or stark. Soft silhouettes and artful construction kept everything feminine and fluid. And a beautiful restraint kept the artful folds and drapes, asymmetry and contrasting fabrics from looking too fussy or overdone. Personally, I can't wait until this collection hits the stores. Until then I'll be making room in my closet for some of the buttery leather, boxy tops, and lighter-than-air knits. 

- Cindy